London Fashion Week Series: 1. Peter Pilotto SS13

After New York City and before the move to Paris and Milan, London Fashion Week offers a very unique and interesting mix of designers with collections that I find to be distinct, individual and often very colourful.  Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos presented one of my favourite collections in London this September.  Vibrant, mixed prints, peplums and embellishment – beading and mirrors – comprised their line for spring 2013.

Vogue commented on the designers’ use of prints:

“Spring references everything from baroque scrolling to ornate 1970s diamonds, abstracted Op Art black-and-white cubes to Art Deco–ish intersecting lines, many of which were inspired by a trip they made to the Santa Maria Assumpta cathedral in Siena (imagine Bridget Riley designing the interiors of a place of worship, and you are getting the right idea) and their summer vacation in India and Nepal. It’s how those patterns undergo some kind of alchemical reaction with a woman’s body, through being worked into increasingly imaginative silhouettes; the total effect — not just a litany of print motifs— creates the impact of what Peter Pilotto does.” Mark Holgate, Vogue.com

Shapes and silhouettes this year were a fascinating mix of feminine nipped in waists, voluminous ruffles, frills and cut outs.  If you described these dresses to me blind I might not imagine them not to work at all.  What Vogue calls a ‘cascading’ motion of the ruffle effect in these styles is probably what gives each piece an elegant and appealing fluidity.  Although not at all one for print, Pilotto and Vos manage to change my mind the moment I see their designs.

Images: Vogue.

StyleOnTheCouch Loves: Peter Pilotto Fall 2012

At this point in time, a time at which prints are being wholeheartedly embraced by one and all*, it would be remiss of me not to feature Peter Pilotto.  Design team Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto are known for their otherworldly prints, which for their fall 2012 collection were inspired by a recent trip to Asia.

Although I experienced their fall collection to be quite similar to spring – and those with a more trained eye are likely to disagree with me I am sure – I never tire of the gorgeous signature mix of print and silhouette at Peter Pilotto.  I am a huge fan of the intricate ‘criss cross’ (as Pilotto calls it) geometry within the designs – this time the cut out detailing within the patterns came across as very strong and powerful (reminiscent of the sort of bodice a female warrior might wear).

Silhouettes were rather more streamlined in comparison with previous collections (see the bottom image, the fabulously voluminous Pilotto dress I tried on at Dover Street Market during my trip back to London in February) but equally as striking.

I did not have words to describe the print when I first saw it.  Somewhat tropical? Of the sea? Somewhat Oriental?  Futuristically 3D?  From Style.Com:

“Inspired by recent trips to Asia, they created a pattern based on Japanese ‘light trucks’, vehicles studded with thousands of lights, and another one abstracted from Chinese opera masks. The latter had a floral sensuousness, and made for some uncomplicatedly gorgeous garments; the light-truck print was trickier, but it looked good set off by swathes of deep blue velvet.” ~ Style.com

Velvet trim, sequins and beading also added to the opulence and glamour of the collection.

What do you think to the aesthetic of Peter Pilotto, Blog Reader?  You can view collections from spring summer 2010, on the Pilotto website.

Images from Elle.com.
*if you are the exception to this rule, please explain below.