Hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week comes London Fashion Week. Yes, less than 24 hours after New York closes its runway, London fires up theirs. New York is often seen as more commercial, London perhaps more inspirational – I feel the differences in the two Fashion Weeks are best summed up by Faran Krentcil (then director of Nylon magazine) in her interview in NYmag a few years back. She explained:
“New York is all about selling clothes to real girls and London is all about making clothes for fantasy balls. In New York, the big aim, even for the very conceptual shows like Alexander Wang is to make clothes that everyone wants to buy and wear and make emblematic of who they are in their actual, everyday lives. And in London, part of what’s happening on the runway is part of this dream world — girls from space or girls from heaven. … It’s more about creating these fantasies and seeing whether that can trickle down into real life. Whereas in New York, it’s about, this is what you want to look like now and you’ll only look that way if you buy our clothes.”
This summer, silhouettes on the London catwalks appear more exaggerated and colours and textures bolder than those seen in NYC. Here I want to present some of my favourite collections, beginning of course with Preen (second image) whose SS14 Ready To Wear collection featured art deco colours, clean lines, patchwork prints and asymmetry. I’ve never met a Preen dress I didn’t like and this looks set to continue into next year.
Tom Ford, image three in this post, was a stand out collection. Vogue said of Ford’s SS14 womenswear:
“He gave it to them, in full force—a wardrobe for making killer entrances and exits, for women to whom easy dressing is a term for wimps.”
Not exactly a wearable collection overall but an undoubtedly powerful aesthetic. One just has to admire Tom Ford for being so very high fashion.
Peter Pilotto is always one to watch in my book. Last year Pilotto gave us vibrant, mixed prints, peplums and embellishment for SS13. This year multihued, complex patterns and what Vogue termed ‘trapezoid’ dresses framed over under-structures danced down the runway. I did like these dress lengths and shapes.
Finally, at Burberry Prorsum (final image) romantic pastels and slimline silhouettes graced the catwalk. Lace and embroidery made for interesting textures – accompanied with some sheer to add that extra flirtatious oomph to an otherwise graceful collection.
So there we have it – my favourites from London Fashion Week!