London Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: Peter Pilotto

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Peter_Pilotto_AW14_styleonthecouchOnly last month, Peter Pilotto and Christopher Vos, the design duo behind ‘Peter Pilotto‘, were winners of the prestigious BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.  Despite competition from the likes of House Of Holland and Mary Katrantzou,  Pilotto’s signature vibrant colours and outstanding prints stood out as a winner for the judging panel.

For AW14, the duo sent their well-known feminine, sculpted silhouettes down the catwalk but with a very grown-up and sophisticated twist:

“In their show notes the designers said they had been inspired by “hybrids and fusion”. In clothing terms, this meant  playing on contrasts and extremes to make for an extended design repertoire that went beyond just the saturated prints and colour combinations that have so successfully contributed to their career this far. Bold embellishment was added to the mix for dense encrustations of blue and coral stones on serious coats. It was a nice new direction to see. Silhouettes were confident and they should be. This was a reflection on how these boys have now made their mark on the industry and everyone is accordingly taking note.” – Vogue.com

Prints were inspired by the travels of Pilotto and Vos; mountainous landscapes and sunset vistas interpreted both literally as well as through zig zag shapes and criss cross patterns.  I loved the emphasis on the waist on some of the body conscious dresses in this collection, and the navy, red and violet colour scheme (passion, seduction and death suggests my husband.) Not a bad way to go, Peter Pilotto.

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde.

 

London Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: House Of Holland

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HouseOfHolland-AW14-styleonthecouch-5After the navy blues, slate greys, crisp whites and pops of scarlet red from New York Fashion Week, House Of Holland showed its usual bold and colorful irreverence with their collection for AW14 in London.  Jeweled tones, sequins, quilted bright bomber jackets and flocked wallpaper prints summed up Henry Holland’s ‘Debauched Debutantes’ – women out to party who’d seen a debutante ball advertised on Facebook and ‘trashed the decadent ballroom setting’.

“Polka dots, pearls and poodle motifs were worn with sequins upon sequins: champagne and lipstick appliqué-covered velvet frocks and T-shirts were printed with The Sun’s front page news – full of salacious headlines of course.” – Vogue.com

Indulgence, the party vibe and acid youth were in full swing along the catwalk.  With plenty of celebrities on the front row, you can guarantee that House Of Holland went straight from the runway to the after-party, pom-pom shoes or no….

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde

New York Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: Thakoon

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Thakoon-AW14-15-NYFWTo end my New York Fashion Week series for AW14 as London opens its catwalks, I’m delighted to bring you Thakoon, whose colours were the perfect medicine to soothe a dark winter mood.

Vivid brights; azure and Persian rose-pink floral prints, inspired by the artistic landscapes of Patagonia, livened up the catwalk.  My favourite styles from the collection were the asymmetric skirts and dresses created from silk and textured wool. Knitwear was key – scarves and funnel neck shoulder wraps adorned the shoulders of most of the models.

In all, Thakoon was what Dazed magazine called “a colourful breath among the monochromatic takes on fall this season.”  And on that note, Blog Reader, we turn our attention to London for AW14, coming soon on StyleOnTheCouch.

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde.