New York Fashion Week Series: 3. Rodarte

Kate and Laura Mulleavy – the sisters behind Rodarte - have a special place in my heart for their quirky and romantic designs.  I always feel they offer something unique and ethereal season after season and this September was no exception.

Opening Ceremony’s blog described Rodarte’s spring summer 2013 collection as “a bit Dungeons and Dragons” combined with a little punk rock and new wave.  They continued:

“Structured bodices, shimmery fabrics, hologram sculptural shoes, fringed vests and leather grommet pants are all part of the look.” ~ Rory Satran, Opening Ceremony.

Vogue observed a sci-fi lean in the collection.  I thought it was an interesting mix of inspirations from different eras and worlds; medieval times, intergalactic battles and elvish charm.  (My lovely Twitter friend Krista suggested that Arwen might approve of the gowns).  Dresses came complete with body-armour – shoulder and breast plates – and chain mail style belts.

Karlie Kloss and Lindsey Wixson on the catwalk gave the show a helluva lot of oomph.

Finally the accessories get honorable mention this season. Dragon ear cuffs and rose necklaces, you say?

Kate Mulleavy told Dazed Magazine:

There were so many layers to this and to pull it all together one of things we thought we were going to need more of was metal jewellery. It was based on bridging this idea of something that is rooted more in baroque and making it modern.”

Once again, I’m more than a little in love with Rodarte’s new collection. Now pass the sword, who’s for live role play?!

You can view the entire spring summer 2013 by Rodarte on Vogue.  Catwalk images here, also Vogue.

New York Fashion Week Series: 2. DKNY

I think it is fair to say that when spring comes around, Blog Reader, you will find me first in line to buy the new summer 2013 collection by DKNY. I will then wear it endlessly, such do I feel that these sleek sportswear inspired looks, silky skirts and dresses and bodysuits were made for me.

Known for her chic and largely monochrome styles, Donna Karen injected an energetic splash of colour this season with neon yellow – a likely homage to the New York taxi cabs that have featured on the DKNY runways and famous adverts in the past.

Add visors, caps with leather brims, cutaway shoulders and mesh panelling and that’s a lot of sports luxe. Yet this influence didn’t distract from DKNY’s sharp and classic black and white tailoring.  One of my favorite looks was a crisp white silk suit with a structured blazer and slightly sheer shirt underneath.

Always one for a dress which flows – the image below shows another of my favourite styles.  It’s a perfect example of the understated glamour that DKNY does so well.

What do you think of the collection, Blog Reader? I’m back in NYC at the end of next week – there’s naturally a lot of inspiration here for my trip and I’m excited to return to Manhattan to visit.  Thank you, DKNY, for creating a collection that so matches my own aesthetic :-)

Images: Vogue.

New York Fashion Week Series: 1. Rag & Bone

In the first of my Fashion Week series, where I’ll be talking about my favourite spring / summer 13 collections from amongst the recent runway presentations in New York, we have Rag & Bone.  I’m usually wholly more interested in the menswear aesthetic at Rag & Bone – I like their crisp military inspired notion of tailoring, a brand signature.  However SS13 has some strong looks for women – slouchy leather trousers, a coral parachute style dress and some stunning shirt dresses.

On Dazed Digital, designer Marcus Wainright talks about the themes and ideas behind the collection:

“[It was] The Paris Dakar Rally, a rally with race cars and trucks and bikes. The idea is a motorsport thing against the desert Bedouin tribesmen clashing. That’s where the hardness of the military and biker thing against the soft white and billowy Bedouin lightweight fabric thing came from. I think that’s a signature of our general inspiration for the brand when we’re designing collections; it’s all about the clash between hard and soft and uptown and downtown. That’s effectively the way girls dress in New York, the way our girl dresses. They’re not all done up and our girl is not necessarily all feminine either, but sometimes she is. I think that balance between the two is what we try to get out of the show.”

I can’t help but think of a modern-day Penelope Pitstop when I look at these images. I am a huge fan of the implied speed in the designs. A pair of their trousers with the racer stripes is high on my wish list.

Rag & Bone have me sold on the hoods and the visor style sunglasses (a collaboration with Oakley - Dazed also noted the Blade Runner connection).  The only thing I’m not sure about is the amount of layering for the summer months. I’m personally used to dressing in simple, form-fitting styles for my own body shape I guess.  I also liked the major injection of colour with the neon green and blues along with the use of interesting fabric textures. Very refreshing.

Images: Vogue.