London Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: Peter Pilotto

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Peter_Pilotto_AW14_styleonthecouchOnly last month, Peter Pilotto and Christopher Vos, the design duo behind ‘Peter Pilotto‘, were winners of the prestigious BFC / Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.  Despite competition from the likes of House Of Holland and Mary Katrantzou,  Pilotto’s signature vibrant colours and outstanding prints stood out as a winner for the judging panel.

For AW14, the duo sent their well-known feminine, sculpted silhouettes down the catwalk but with a very grown-up and sophisticated twist:

“In their show notes the designers said they had been inspired by “hybrids and fusion”. In clothing terms, this meant  playing on contrasts and extremes to make for an extended design repertoire that went beyond just the saturated prints and colour combinations that have so successfully contributed to their career this far. Bold embellishment was added to the mix for dense encrustations of blue and coral stones on serious coats. It was a nice new direction to see. Silhouettes were confident and they should be. This was a reflection on how these boys have now made their mark on the industry and everyone is accordingly taking note.” – Vogue.com

Prints were inspired by the travels of Pilotto and Vos; mountainous landscapes and sunset vistas interpreted both literally as well as through zig zag shapes and criss cross patterns.  I loved the emphasis on the waist on some of the body conscious dresses in this collection, and the navy, red and violet colour scheme (passion, seduction and death suggests my husband.) Not a bad way to go, Peter Pilotto.

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde.

 

London Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: J.W. Anderson

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JWAnderson-AW1415-DazedA ‘modern 20s romance’  summed up the AW14 collection from J.W. Anderson.  Long skirts, tall funnel necks, boxy, square-cut tops, trapeze coats and tunics-over-trousers in lush fabrications – everything was elongated and sculptural in this line inspired by artist Dame Barbara Hepworth.  The question of ‘romance’ in such a collection is probably best answered by blogger Susie Bubble.  In an article for Dazed Digital she wrote about Anderson’s exploration into the ‘avant-bland’ and the sensuality that can be found in androgyny:

“Anderson plays with gender archetypes as though he’s setting himself a dare.  Never mind gender bending, he’s increasingly speeding up on an ongoing gender swerve, playing with levels of masculinity and femininity in both his menswear and womenswear as though they were adjustable dials on a turntable. What’s interesting though is how appealing Anderson’s apparently ‘sexless’ clothes are to women.  Very feminine women at that, judging from the number of J.W. Anderson pieces seen on editors on the streets of New York and now London.

Anderson is by no means the first to reject the lines, silhouettes, colours and motifs which ‘flatter’ women and play up to their femininity.  However, he is resolutely steadfast in his approach towards ensuring women have the choice to wear jutting out shapes oddly placed around the neck, skirts that are layered and proportioned unexpectedly and shirts that have windswept bows splaying at the waist.  The cleverness of Anderson’s designs, which has aided his ascent, is that what is supposedly sexless becomes the very opposite.  Sexy, like beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Susie Bubble for Dazed Magazine.

Back to the show, Anderson presented a severe love-story:

“It was about twisting and rooting a woman from the ground up. I wanted it to feel a bit disturbed. I like the idea of shriveled arm – something that might appear to be like roots. I think that’s why I was looking at corduroy and the ways in which I could elevate it so it didn’t feel poor. We cut it on the bias, we bonded it, we fused it and we tried to make it a little bit more suspended.

The initial starting point was actually a picture by Graham Sutherland. I thought, what would it be like if this contorted figure was actually something. I spoke to someone about the twenties and thought about how the twenties hadn’t really been tackled. Then I thought about corduroy and how I hated it. How I could get all those things together to be a woman.” – J.W.Anderson, Dazed Magazine.

Photos: Dazed Digital.

London Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: House Of Holland

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HouseOfHolland-AW14-styleonthecouch-5After the navy blues, slate greys, crisp whites and pops of scarlet red from New York Fashion Week, House Of Holland showed its usual bold and colorful irreverence with their collection for AW14 in London.  Jeweled tones, sequins, quilted bright bomber jackets and flocked wallpaper prints summed up Henry Holland’s ‘Debauched Debutantes’ – women out to party who’d seen a debutante ball advertised on Facebook and ‘trashed the decadent ballroom setting’.

“Polka dots, pearls and poodle motifs were worn with sequins upon sequins: champagne and lipstick appliqué-covered velvet frocks and T-shirts were printed with The Sun’s front page news – full of salacious headlines of course.” – Vogue.com

Indulgence, the party vibe and acid youth were in full swing along the catwalk.  With plenty of celebrities on the front row, you can guarantee that House Of Holland went straight from the runway to the after-party, pom-pom shoes or no….

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde