London Fashion Week Favourites RTW SS14

Peter Pilotto RTW SS14 London Fashion Week

Preen RTW SS14 London Fashion Week

Tom Ford Women RTW SS14 London Fashion Week

Burberry Prorsum SS14 RTW London Fashion WeekHot on the heels of New York Fashion Week comes London Fashion Week.  Yes, less than 24 hours after New York closes its runway, London fires up theirs.  New York is often seen as more commercial, London perhaps more inspirational – I feel the differences in the two Fashion Weeks are best summed up by Faran Krentcil (then director of Nylon magazine) in her interview in NYmag a few years back. She explained:

“New York is all about selling clothes to real girls and London is all about making clothes for fantasy balls. In New York, the big aim, even for the very conceptual shows like Alexander Wang is to make clothes that everyone wants to buy and wear and make emblematic of who they are in their actual, everyday lives.  And in London, part of what’s happening on the runway is part of this dream world — girls from space or girls from heaven. … It’s more about creating these fantasies and seeing whether that can trickle down into real life.  Whereas in New York, it’s about, this is what you want to look like now and you’ll only look that way if you buy our clothes.”

This summer, silhouettes on the London catwalks appear more exaggerated and colours and textures bolder than those seen in NYC. Here I want to present some of my favourite collections, beginning of course with Preen (second image) whose SS14 Ready To Wear collection featured art deco colours, clean lines, patchwork prints and asymmetry.  I’ve never met a Preen dress I didn’t like and this looks set to continue into next year.

Tom Ford, image three in this post, was a stand out collection.  Vogue said of Ford’s SS14 womenswear:

“He gave it to them, in full force—a wardrobe for making killer entrances and exits, for women to whom easy dressing is a term for wimps.”

Not exactly a wearable collection overall but an undoubtedly powerful aesthetic.  One just has to admire Tom Ford for being so very high fashion.

Peter Pilotto is always one to watch in my book.  Last year Pilotto gave us vibrant, mixed prints, peplums and embellishment for SS13.  This year multihued, complex patterns and what Vogue termed ‘trapezoid’ dresses framed over under-structures danced down the runway. I did like these dress lengths and shapes.

Finally, at Burberry Prorsum (final image) romantic pastels and slimline silhouettes graced the catwalk.  Lace and embroidery made for interesting textures –  accompanied with some sheer to add that extra flirtatious oomph to an otherwise graceful collection.

So there we have it – my favourites from London Fashion Week!

StyleOnTheCouch xo

London Fashion Week Series: 2. Sass & Bide

Geometric details, simple silhouettes and pure colours with splashes of gold and silver exploded down the runway of Sass & Bide at London Fashion Week this September.  Entitled ‘Loveshady’, the fresh simplicity of this SS13 collection delighted me.

A mix of masculine and feminine; trailing skirts and sharp shorts; an intertwining of soft romance (flowing chiffon) with sharp tailoring resulted in a ‘boy meets girl’ collection.

The brand’s signature embellishments were present but I felt the overall effect was more subtle than in previous seasons.  A palette of monochrome was interrupted here and there with soft peaches and striking tangerine shades.  Talking with my blogger friend Anna we felt the eye-catching crisp white and gold looks were the highlight of this collection (see image below:)

Metallics in the form of sequined skirts, Cleopatra-style gold belts and chokers and chunky silver details gave the collection a lot of oomph.  Sometimes it felt ‘too much’ –  I didn’t much care for the full length sparkling dress or maxi skirt, that’s a little too much bling for me.

What I did love were the slouchy, relaxed trousers (even the tangerine coloured ones!)  The soft feathered short dresses also won me over.

Some themes were included that have run throughout the spring summer 2013 fashion weeks  - harness details, racer necklines and slimline pants.

With a new e-boutique on their website, time for me to start saving for Sass & Bide!

London Fashion Week Series: 1. Peter Pilotto SS13

After New York City and before the move to Paris and Milan, London Fashion Week offers a very unique and interesting mix of designers with collections that I find to be distinct, individual and often very colourful.  Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos presented one of my favourite collections in London this September.  Vibrant, mixed prints, peplums and embellishment – beading and mirrors – comprised their line for spring 2013.

Vogue commented on the designers’ use of prints:

“Spring references everything from baroque scrolling to ornate 1970s diamonds, abstracted Op Art black-and-white cubes to Art Deco–ish intersecting lines, many of which were inspired by a trip they made to the Santa Maria Assumpta cathedral in Siena (imagine Bridget Riley designing the interiors of a place of worship, and you are getting the right idea) and their summer vacation in India and Nepal. It’s how those patterns undergo some kind of alchemical reaction with a woman’s body, through being worked into increasingly imaginative silhouettes; the total effect — not just a litany of print motifs— creates the impact of what Peter Pilotto does.” Mark Holgate, Vogue.com

Shapes and silhouettes this year were a fascinating mix of feminine nipped in waists, voluminous ruffles, frills and cut outs.  If you described these dresses to me blind I might not imagine them not to work at all.  What Vogue calls a ‘cascading’ motion of the ruffle effect in these styles is probably what gives each piece an elegant and appealing fluidity.  Although not at all one for print, Pilotto and Vos manage to change my mind the moment I see their designs.

Images: Vogue.