New York Fashion Week Series: Rodarte SS15

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Rodarte_SS151I have admired the beautiful, poetic designs from Rodarte for a long time – this season a dazzling array of punky mermaids and glamorous pirates walked the catwalk to the tune of ‘The Big Ship’ by Brian Eno.

“When Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy were children, their father would take them to see the famed tide pools of Monterey where they grew up, and the hypnotic beauty of the sea life—and their wonder at the exquisite colors they discovered there—have stayed with them ever since.

This season, they decided to channel those childhood memories by creating richly layered and embellished pieces of clothing that suggested seaweed and algae swirled by the seawater and rocks thick with crustaceans. ‘We wanted to re-create the texture of those underwater tide pools,’ Kate explained, ‘to explore this idea of underwater worlds, with all the movement and fluidity’.” – Vogue.com

The dresses had the familiar fragility with which Rodarte become known for their designs. However there was a lot of strength in the collection also – the high waist ‘second skin’ pants were a favorite of mine, especially those accessorized with a belt fastened by a chunky fisherman’s hook.  The thigh high gladiator style boots were also something else.  Fashion for the bold indeed, but stunningly beautiful nonetheless.  Shiver me timbers, indeed.

Photos: Dazed Digital.

Paris Fashion Week AW14/15 Series: Isabel Marant

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IsabelMarant-AW14-styleonthecouch-5If there is one thing I have learned from having a best friend who is French, it is the power of the a silk t-shirt or blouse, slim jeans and ankle boots.  Yes, that just-rolled-out-of-bed-and-can’t-be-bothered look, done so well by the French woman with that je ne sais quoi – whether it’s last night’s clothes (slouchy tee, grey jeans) or that perfectly coordinated designer outfit, the French woman always seems to look positively wonderful.

This is why, Blog Reader, Isabel Marant somewhat frustrates me.  Try as I might, as an Englishwoman, I have never quite been able to perfect her blend of essence-of-tomboy and bohemian chic.  Vogue says of Marant: “Equal parts confidence and nonchalance—that’s what makes this Gallic girl so enviable, and no one captures it better.”

For AW14, Marant ushered in understated power dressing:

“If you’re her kind of girl, you’re free-spirited, bohemian, cool and casual with a dishevelled chic that blurs the lines between what you got up to in the day and what you got up to at night. Today, that’s exactly what we got for military styles incarnated in evening shimmer, khaki knits, short skirts and big shoulders – in a stole-your-boyfriend’s-jacket meets Decarnin’s Balmain way.

The shoulders got bigger and more pronounced as the collection continued and a combination of trophy day-dressing ensued. A simple shirtdress rendered in silver metallic suddenly had nighttime appeal, while camouflage flourished in sequins, knitted trousers were punctuated with shimmer, and a sparkly T-shirt came worn with a supersized fluffy cardigan.” – Vogue.com

I really liked the paper-bag waist trousers, the quilted pants and the boots wrapped, bondage style, with leather straps.  If only I could just morph myself into this look of perfectly tousled French cool, I’d opt for a wardrobe full of Marant.

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde.

 

New York Fashion Week Series: 3. Rodarte

Kate and Laura Mulleavy – the sisters behind Rodarte – have a special place in my heart for their quirky and romantic designs.  I always feel they offer something unique and ethereal season after season and this September was no exception.

Opening Ceremony’s blog described Rodarte’s spring summer 2013 collection as “a bit Dungeons and Dragons” combined with a little punk rock and new wave.  They continued:

“Structured bodices, shimmery fabrics, hologram sculptural shoes, fringed vests and leather grommet pants are all part of the look.” ~ Rory Satran, Opening Ceremony.

Vogue observed a sci-fi lean in the collection.  I thought it was an interesting mix of inspirations from different eras and worlds; medieval times, intergalactic battles and elvish charm.  (My lovely Twitter friend Krista suggested that Arwen might approve of the gowns).  Dresses came complete with body-armour – shoulder and breast plates – and chain mail style belts.

Karlie Kloss and Lindsey Wixson on the catwalk gave the show a helluva lot of oomph.

Finally the accessories get honorable mention this season. Dragon ear cuffs and rose necklaces, you say?

Kate Mulleavy told Dazed Magazine:

There were so many layers to this and to pull it all together one of things we thought we were going to need more of was metal jewellery. It was based on bridging this idea of something that is rooted more in baroque and making it modern.”

Once again, I’m more than a little in love with Rodarte’s new collection. Now pass the sword, who’s for live role play?!

You can view the entire spring summer 2013 by Rodarte on Vogue.  Catwalk images here, also Vogue.