London Fashion Week Series: 1. Peter Pilotto SS13
3rd October 2012
After New York City and before the move to Paris and Milan, London Fashion Week offers a very unique and interesting mix of designers with collections that I find to be distinct, individual and often very colourful. Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos presented one of my favourite collections in London this September. Vibrant, mixed prints, peplums and embellishment – beading and mirrors – comprised their line for spring 2013.
Vogue commented on the designers’ use of prints:
“Spring references everything from baroque scrolling to ornate 1970s diamonds, abstracted Op Art black-and-white cubes to Art Deco–ish intersecting lines, many of which were inspired by a trip they made to the Santa Maria Assumpta cathedral in Siena (imagine Bridget Riley designing the interiors of a place of worship, and you are getting the right idea) and their summer vacation in India and Nepal. It’s how those patterns undergo some kind of alchemical reaction with a woman’s body, through being worked into increasingly imaginative silhouettes; the total effect — not just a litany of print motifs— creates the impact of what Peter Pilotto does.” Mark Holgate, Vogue.com
Shapes and silhouettes this year were a fascinating mix of feminine nipped in waists, voluminous ruffles, frills and cut outs. If you described these dresses to me blind I might not imagine them not to work at all. What Vogue calls a ‘cascading’ motion of the ruffle effect in these styles is probably what gives each piece an elegant and appealing fluidity. Although not at all one for print, Pilotto and Vos manage to change my mind the moment I see their designs.