“Where are my dragons?” might the gasps have been at the start of this year’s offering from Alexander McQueen: the usual dark, ethereal mix of drama and haute couture – Rivendell meets Games of Thrones; ravens mixing with ghostly apparitions along the catwalk.
Burton’s oh so lovely way of retaining the McQueen signatures (the love of Victorian corsetry, frock coats,) whilst modernizing and softening the brand’s creations (Burton once told Women’s Wear Daily “There’s always got to be some darkness, because otherwise you don’t appreciate what’s light”) was present in the sheer white gowns embroidered with stars and moons in the show’s finale. She also brought us broderie anglaise dresses with layered, billowing sleeves and – all very beautiful. My favourite design was a black sheer dress embellished with feathers that grew into a full feather skirt.
“Burton gave us heavy trapezed layers of fur that swung as they trampled over growing grassy mounds as hooded parkas and laden jackets or fell out into cape cuts; white broderie anglaise folksy peasant dresses whose sleeves were swollen out into place and then tamed back in by ribbon bows; high Tudor and Stewart collars for regal effect on monochrome flowing gowns; and then indigo-to-green mossy print and moss textured variations of all of the above; then followed by mosaic-shine incarnations too which were surely the social media money shot of the evening.
It was sinister and fairytale all at once with a nod to a Midsummer Night’s Dream in there too, the corn rows so tightly wrapped up in the models’ hair the perfect segue between past and present that Burton so well has a handle on.” – Vogue.com
Gothic beauty, another wonderful hit from McQueen.
Images: Dazed Digital.